
QUALITY ASSURANCE
- Installer/Builder Qualifications: An experienced installer/builder who has completed interior and exterior projects similar in material, design and extent indicated for the project, whose work has resulted in interior and exterior installations of similar products with a record of successful in-service performance.
- Customer Installation Qualifications: Leave yourself ample time to adequately plan each step of your project. Proper planning and correct knowledge will yield the best results possible. If you encounter an issue regarding the installation, always consult with an installation professional or contact the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) at 1-800-422-4556 or www.nwfa.org.
- Installation Qualifications: Installation will require either architectural plans or on-site planning to determine the actual method(s) of installation to meet local building codes. Such planning and details of all projects are the responsibility of the customer or customers’ agent.
- Complexity of Projects: Complexity of projects will vary greatly. Consult a professional installer for more information.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
- Do not install wood products until they have had adequate time to adjust to the relative humidity of the new environment (within 2-1/2% Moisture Content).
- Protect wood products from exposure to moisture and like conditions. Do not deliver wood products until after concrete, masonry, plaster, ceramic tile and similar wet work is completely cured and dried.
- Store wood products in a dry, warm, well-ventilated, weather-tight location.
- Move wood products into spaces where they will be installed at least seven to ten days before installation.
PROJECT CONDITIONS
- Conditioning: Maintain an ambient temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit in spaces to receive wood products for at least seven days before installation, during installation, and for at least seven days after installation. After post-installation period, maintain relative humidity and ambient temperature planned for building occupants.
- Do not install wood products until it has adjusted to the relative humidity and temperature of the space where it is to be installed.
- Moisture contents between flooring/paneling and sub flooring should vary no more than 2-1/2% of one another before installation
OWNER/INSTALLER/AGENT RESPONSIBILITY
- Reclaimed wood & stone products are a product of nature; and therefore, not perfect.
- Prior to installation of any product, the owner/installer/agent must determine that the job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards.
- The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure from or associated with sub-surface, sub flooring or job-site environment deficiencies.
- Use of stain, filler or putty stick for touch-up during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
- Use of appropriate products for correcting sub floor voids should be accepted as normal industry practice.
INSTALLATION TIPS & IDEAS:
- End block flooring can be installed with or without grout. Use grout for a more traditional tile floor look or try to set the tiles in a tight, flush fit without grout.
- Tiles can be applied to walls for backsplashes, decorative coverings or anywhere where the tile look is desired but not exposed to excess moisture.
- Always experiment with finishes on a cut-off or on a section that will not be seen (all woods take various products differently).
CLOSELY RELATED PRODUCTS:
- Quarter Round Moulding
- Stair Treads and Risers
- All Stair Parts
COMPLEMENTARY PRODUCTS:
- Beams
- Custom Mouldings & Millwork
- Barn Siding
- Paneling
- Rusty Tin
- Cabinet Lumber
- Custom Cabinetry & Furniture
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND APPLICABLE MATH:
- Flooring Tiles
- Adhesive
- Spacers(optional)
- Appropriate color flexible wood filler
- Sanding machines and sandpaper selections
- Finish (polyurethane recommended)
- MATH: All flooring is measured in square feet. This is the amount of lumber required to cover one square foot of area without any consideration for the thickness of the wood.
- [Square Feet = width x length of floor/flat surface]
- Example: A 17’ x 19’6” floor or surface is 331½ square feet (17’x19.5’)
SURFACE/SITE PREPARATION:
- End grain flooring tiles are not interlocked as in tongue & groove flooring. A solid, stable sub floor is required in order to ensure proper installation and reduce defects. A strong, non-flexible sub floor also allows for end block tiles and tile grout to remain stable. End grain flooring tiles are suitable for direct installation over fully cured concrete. DO NOT LAY WOOD FLOORING OVER NEW CONCRETE UNTIL IT HAS HAD ADEQUATE TIME TO CURE/DRY. Plywood sub floor is recommended. All plywood sub floors should be properly fastened to supports with screws before installing flooring.
PRODUCT INSTALLATION(Summer):
- Determine your tile pattern before adhering tiles to the sub floor.
- Due to the varying patinas, wood grain patterns and other distinguishing characteristics that are prevalent in each individual end block flooring tile, make sure to lay out the tiles in a random pattern.
- Thoroughly clear sub floor of all loose debris. Check sub floor for any protruding construction mortar on a concrete sub floor or any exposed nails on a wood sub floor. If any dust is still present repeat this step to ensure that sub floor is adequately cleaned and free of ALL dust.
- Apply recommended urethane adhesive with a ¼” x ¼” square–notch trowel (confirm trowel size with the adhesive manufacturer). Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the application of the adhesive. DO NOT USE WATER-BASED ADHESIVE WITH THE HARDWOOD FLOORING PRODUCT.
- Adhere tiles to the sub floor in the desired pattern (professional strength mastic/adhesive is recommended for attaching the tiles to the sub floor). Use enough adhesive so that the bottom of the tile is completely covered to ensure that no grout moisture can enter the block through the bottom. Depending on pattern of tiles allow gaps between the tiles at your discretion. Always leave an expansion gap of between 1/2" and 1"(larger rooms will need a larger expansion gap) around perimeter of room as well as any permanent fixtures in room such as an island bar.
- Allow for adhesive agent to fully set before sanding floor. This is usually 24 to 48 hours and will vary according the weather conditions.
- Sand the floor First with a drum sander using 60 grit sandpaper to start. Depending on floor finish required four to eight cuts will be necessary. Make the first cuts across the rows of wood blocks then make the final cuts in the same direction as the rows of wood blocks.
- Apply appropriate flexible wood filler to all gaps/spacing as needed(this step is optional or as needed).
- Finish sanding the floor with a disc sander using 100 grit sandpaper. Finer grit sandpaper will enhance the finish look at this point(be careful not to dislodge the flexible wood filler).
PRODUCT INSTALLATION(Winter):
- Determine your tile pattern before adhering tiles to the sub floor.
- Due to the varying patinas, wood grain patterns and other distinguishing characteristics that are prevalent in each individual end block flooring tile, make sure to lay out the tiles in a random pattern.
- Thoroughly clear sub floor of all loose debris. Check sub floor for any protruding construction mortar on a concrete sub floor or any exposed nails on a wood sub floor. If any dust is still present repeat this step to ensure that sub floor is adequately cleaned and free of ALL dust.
- Apply recommended urethane adhesive with a ¼” x ¼” square–notch trowel (confirm trowel size with the adhesive manufacturer). Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the application of the adhesive. DO NOT USE WATER-BASED ADHESIVE WITH THE HARDWOOD FLOORING PRODUCT.
- Adhere tiles to the sub floor in the desired pattern (professional strength mastic/adhesive is recommended for attaching the tiles to the sub floor). Use enough adhesive so that the bottom of the tile is completely covered to ensure that no grout moisture can enter the block through the bottom. Depending on pattern of tiles allow gaps between the tiles at your discretion. Always leave an expansion gap of between 1/2" and 1"(larger rooms will need a larger expansion gap) around perimeter of room as well as any permanent fixtures in room such as an island bar.
- Allow for adhesive agent to fully set and acclimate the floor for at least 5 more days before sanding floor.
- Sand the floor First with a drum sander using 60 grit sandpaper to start. Depending on floor finish required four to eight cuts will be necessary. Make the first cuts across the rows of wood blocks then make the final cuts in the same direction as the rows of wood blocks.
- Apply appropriate flexible wood filler to all gaps/spacing as needed(this step is optional or as needed).
- Finish sanding the floor with a disc sander using 100 grit sandpaper. Finer grit sandpaper will enhance the finish look at this point(be careful not to dislodge the flexible wood filler).
FINISHING:
- Once sanding is completed, thoroughly clean the surface of the floor and prepare it for finishing.
- Apply any stains if desired (optional).
- Always experiment with finishes on a cut-off or on a section that will not be seen (all woods take various products differently).
- Apply three to four coats of finish, lightly sanding between each coat. End grain flooring tiles may require more layers of finish than a standard tongue & groove floor.
- Always follow the manufacturers recommended installation instructions for all products used.
CARE & MAINTENANCE:
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It is essential to keep your floors free from sand, dirt, water, food, grease, and any other liquids or abrasives that can damage the floor or finish.
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Periodical cleaning of floors using a leading brand of wood cleaner made especially for floors is very important (always follow the manufacturers recommended instructions). Do not use ammonia or oil-based polish, wax, abrasive cleaners, or furniture cleaners. Always install floor protectors under chairs furniture, or other items that may sit directly on your floor to help prevent scratches, scarring, and dents. Regularly, sweep, dust mop and/or vacuum to keep dirt, sand and grit from damaging the floor and finish.
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Wipe up all spills immediately with a soft, dry cloth.
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Avoid walking on floors with sharp, stiletto high heel shoes, golfing shoes or shoes with soles in need of repair.
- Please refer to the Care & Maintenance Guide for more detailed information regarding Care & Maintenance of your flooring.
FINISHES:
WATER-BASED URETHANE (or water-borne): A water base with a blend of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film-forming ingredients produces a durable surface that is moisture resistant. Available in different gloss levels and a good environmental choice, it is easy to apply and is only slightly less hard than moisture-cured urethanes.
OIL-MODIFIED URETHANES: A petroleum base with a blend of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film-forming ingredients produces a durable surface that is moisture resistant. Available in different gloss levels, oil modified urethanes are an older method still used to replicate or match historic and existing structures. A wax finish is typically applied over oil-modified polyurethane.
CONVERSION VARNISH FINISHES (Swedish Finish): Conversion varnish finishes which are products with durability and moisture resistance. These finishes may be difficult to apply properly and are best left to the professional.
PENETRATING OIL SEALER: Sealers that are urethane or varnish-type materials that are spread on the floor and allowed to penetrate. The excess is removed with rags or buffed in with steel wool or synthetic pads. For a soft natural finish a penetrating oil sealer can be applied. These types of finishes may include a color and can be used to stain and seal the floor. Wax finish is applied over the penetrating oil sealer for protection.
100% NATURAL FINISHING PRODUCTS: Natural finishing products are available for people with allergies, chemical sensitivities, or for those who want to use completely non-toxic products.
WAX FINISHES: For surface protection, paste wax is spread in thin coats, generally following the application of a sealer and/or stain and then buffed. Wax finishes are used as a protective coating and add a soft natural glow to the floor.
TUNG OIL: An overall classic finish. Advantages include durability as well as ease of application and repair. Tung oil is also impervious to water. Disadvantage: tung oil is not effective for filling wood grain, but advantageous if you are looking for a finish that gives more of a wood grain feel.
Recommended Floor Finish Manufacturers
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Absolute Coatings
38 Portman Road
New Rochelle, NY 10801
(914) 636-0700
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Professional Coatings
27010 Highway 107
Cabot, AR 72023
(800) 962-0344
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Basic Coatings
2124 Valley Drive P.O. Box 677
Des Moines, IA 50303
(800) 247-5471
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Waterlox Coatings
9808 Meech Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44105
(800) 321-0377
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BonaKemi USA
14805 E. Moncrieff Place
Aurora, CO 80011-1207
(303) 371-1411
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Sikkens Wood Care Products
www.sikkens.com
(866) SIKKENS
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Dura Seal – Minwax CO.
1704 Woodstock Blvd, #1201
Arlington, TX 76006
(817) 226-1587
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Pratt & Lambert
www.prattandlambert.com
(800) 289-7728
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Glitsa American
327 S. Kenyon Street
Seattle, WA 98108
(800) 527-8111
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The Natural Choice
1365 Ruffina Circle
Santa Fe, NM 87501
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Harco Chemical Coatings
208 Dupont Street
Brooklyn, NY 11222
(800) 445-3777
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McGrevor Coatings
1701 Utica Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11234
(800) 922-9981
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