Flooring – Installation and Sanding
Installation, Care & Maintenance Guide

INSTALLATION AND SANDING – FLOORING
GENERAL PRODUCT HANDLING & INSTALLATION

QUALITY ASSURANCE

STORAGE AND HANDLING

PROJECT CONDITIONS

1. Do not install wood products until it has adjusted to the relative humidity and temperature of the space where it is to be installed.
2. Moisture contents between flooring/paneling and subflooring should vary no more than 2-1/2% of one another before installation.

OWNER/INSTALLER/AGENT RESPONSIBILITY

• Reclaimed wood & stone products are a product of nature; and therefore, not perfect.
• Prior to installation of any product, the owner/installer/agent must determine that the job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards.
• The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure from or associated with sub-surface, subflooring or job-site environment deficiencies.
• Use of stain, filler or putty stick for touch-up during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
• Use of appropriate products for correcting subfloor voids should be accepted as normal industry practice.

INSTALLATION TIPS & IDEAS:

• Wood flooring is one of the last jobs of any construction project.
• Make sure to have an appropriate, sturdy, stable subfloor previous to installing your new flooring at least 5/8 inch thick.
• All texturing and primer coats should be completed previous to installing wood floors.
• It is recommended that any flooring planks exceeding 3 inches in width be both glued and nailed to the subfloor.
• If you are secret nailing a wide wood plank floor (i.e. where the width of the board is greater than five times the thickness of the board) consider additional fixing by nailing through the face of the plank, plugging the hole with a plug made from timber. This will give a smooth finish if you do not wish to see the nails.
• It is a wise precaution to treat all battens and existing timber joists against infestation and rot before laying your new floor.
• Remember that all wood floors will move between seasonal extremes; expanding in the summer months and shrinking in the winter months when the heating is on. This is quite normal.
• Always leave an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. This should be 1/2 inch for small rooms and 1/2 to 3/4 inch for larger rooms. In most cases the gap will be covered by the skirting board.
• When flooring is installed it may be necessary to do a light sanding.
• Always allow flooring to acclimate (7-10 days minimum) previous to installation. Installation in summer months requires the flooring stacks to acclimate prior to installation in an air-conditioned, humidity controlled space. Do not expose flooring stacks to high humidity for at least one week before installation. Remove any wrapping from flooring for acclimation
• If laying floor onto concrete, lay down a vapor retarder such as 6 mil polyethylene film over the concrete to create a vapor barrier.
• Although flooring may start tight initially after installation, as a natural product, it will continue to absorb and release moisture. Seasonally, this natural process may cause some small cracks to develop between boards.
• If your tongue and groove floor isn’t seating itself properly, use a piece of scrap flooring to protect the actual floor when tapping them together.
• Make sure the moisture content of framing members in a structure ranges between or is less than 12% to 14% (or within 2 1/2% relative humidity of the new product) before delivery.
• It is recommended to place 15 lb. asphalt saturated felt paper or a building paper with an equivalent permanence over the subfloor previous to installation (unless using a mastic acting as a partial vapor barrier in conjunction with other expectable vapor barrier options).
• Due to the varying patinas, wood grain patterns and other distinguishing characteristics that are prevalent in each individual flooring plank, make sure to lay out the flooring in a random pattern.
• On adjacent rows, stagger end joints at least 12” from each other when laying a floor.  Avoid “H” joints, where two end joints parallel each other, separated by one plank.
• Try to keep as much original surface as possible.
• Test finishes, stains and wood fillers on hidden or unused pieces of wood making sure to allow full drying and a finishing coat to insure desired results.
• Using finishes containing ultraviolet inhibitor will help to prevent color changes in wood. If you wish for your wood project to continue to amber with time, it is not recommended using ultraviolet inhibitor.
• Radiant heat should never exceed 85 degrees at a wood floors surface. Narrower planks (under 4 inches in width) are also recommended when installing flooring over radiant heat.
• When laying a random width floor you should lay all planks in a random order. DO NOT LAY RANDOM WIDTH FLOORING IN A PATTERN UNLESS YOU HAVE PLANNED FOR IT AHEAD OF TIME. YOU MAY END UP RUNNING SHORT ON A PARTICULAR WIDTH PLANK WITHOUT PROPER ADVANCED PLANNING.

CLOSELY RELATED PRODUCTS:

• Square Nails
• Quarter Round Mouldings
• Wooden Pegs
• Stair Treads and Risers
• All Stair Parts

COMPLEMENTARY PRODUCTS:

• Beams
• Siding
• Cabinet Lumber
• Custom Mouldings & Millwork (Trim, Doors, Windows)
• Paneling
• Fireplace Mantles
• Custom Cabinetry/Furniture
• Custom Counter & Table Tops

RECOMMENDED TOOLS & APPLICABLE MATH:

INSTALLATION:

• Tape Measure or Folding Rule
• Pencil
• Broom
• Circular Saw, Jig Saw or Table Saw
• Drill with 1/16” Drill Bit
• Chalk Line & Chalk
• Flooring Cleat Nailer or Pneumatic Nailer or Manual Floor Nailer
• Hammer
• 6-8d Finishing Nails – 1 ½” – 2” Length with 18 Gauge Minimum
• Rubber Mallet
• Moisture Meter (quality moisture meter with manufacturer’s relevant species calibration figures)
• Putty Knife
• Nail Punches (countersinks)
• Glue/Adhesive

SANDING:

• Drum Sander
• Orbital Hand Sander
• Large Pad Orbital Sander (A Must for Rustic Grade Floors)
• Rags (Dusting/Cleaning, preferably lint free)

FINISHING:

• Tack Rags
• Recommended Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
• Sand Paper
• Sanders (Drum and hand)
• Finishing Product (such as polyurethane)
• Paintbrush or other applicator
• Always follow manufacturers’ directions and guidelines for quantities of finish needed and follow their recommended procedures to achieve best results.

APPLICABLE MATH: 

• All flooring is measured in square feet.  This is the amount of lumber required to cover one square foot of area without any consideration for the thickness of the wood.
  • [Square Feet = width x length of floor/flat surface]
  • Example:  A 17’ x 19’6” floor or surface is 331½ square feet (17’x19.5’)
• Please refer to the Workshop Math Guide for more information.

SURFACE/SITE PREPARATION:

MOISTURE:

• Check the job site conditions before delivery and make sure the flooring will not be exposed to extended periods of high humidity or moisture.
• The ground surface grade or slope should direct water away from the building.
• Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. In joist construction with no basement, outside cross ventilation through vents or other openings on the foundation walls must be provided with no dead air areas.
• The building should be closed in with outside windows and doors in place. All concrete, masonry, sheet rock and framing members, etc. should be thoroughly dry before flooring is delivered to the job site.
• In warm months the building needs to be well ventilated.   During the winter months, heating should be maintained near the occupancy levels at least 5 to 7 days before the flooring is delivered and until sanding and finishing are complete.
• Because materials used to provide energy efficient structures trap moisture in the residence or commercial space, it may be necessary to delay delivery and installation of flooring to allow the excess moisture to evaporate that was trapped during construction. The average moisture content of framing members and subflooring should be below 12%-14% (or within 2 1/2% relative humidity of the product) before delivery of the flooring. Moisture contents above 12%-14% can cause moisture related problems.
• When job site conditions are appropriate, have the flooring delivered and broken up into small lots and stored in the rooms where it will be installed. Allow 7 to 10 days or more for the flooring to become acclimated to job site conditions.
• If flooring is packaged, open or remove packaging for acclimation.  Do not cover the flooring with any covering that may reduce air flow and inhibit acclimation.  If covering the flooring is necessary, use cloth tarps, construction grade paper or cardboard.
• From the time flooring is delivered and until occupancy, temperature and humidity should be maintained at or near occupancy levels. After occupancy, continue to control the environment. Extended times (more than 1 month) without HVAC controls can promote elevated moisture conditions which can adversely affect flooring.
• Protect flooring from excessive heat. Flooring installed over heating plants or non-insulated heating ducts may develop cracks unless protected from the source of heat. Use a double layer of 15lb, or a single layer of 30lb asphalt felt/building paper, or 1/2” standard insulation board between joists under the flooring in these areas. Insulation used over heating plants should be non-flammable.

SOURCES OF MOISTURE:

• Most homes with problems of excess moisture have wet basements or crawl spaces. Some researchers have estimated that as much as ten times the normal moisture production in a house can be contributed by a wet crawl space.
• To keep basements and crawl spaces dry, make sure the lot is graded correctly and that the soil in contact with the foundation is kept dry. Every crawl space must have a ground cover sheet or membrane, usually of 6mil thick polyethylene that is not susceptible to damage by fungi, which covers all of the exposed soil.
• Grade and smooth the ground before installing the ground cover.
• The edges of the ground cover should turn up onto the walls of the crawl space at least 4 to 6 inches. Where more than one piece of the polyethylene is needed, lap the edges 4 to 6 inches. Sealing is not necessary.

• Hold the polyethylene ground cover in place against the wall with sand or bricks.
• Crawl spaces should be inspected regularly (after every heavy rain, for example) to ensure water does not collect on top of the ground cover.

TESTING FOR MOISTURE CONTENT:

• Use a quality moisture meter to measure the moisture content of both the subfloor and the flooring. Subfloors must not exceed 12% moisture content. The difference between subfloor and flooring cannot exceed 2-1/2%
• If subfloors exceed 12% moisture, an effort needs to be made to locate and eliminate the source of moisture before further installation. A moisture barrier (StrateStuff Safeguard is recommended; 6 mil polyethylene film minimum) may be required in addition to the 15 lbs. asphalt felt. Asphalt felt is not considered a moisture barrier, rather a vapor retarder.

INSTALLATIONS OVER A CONCRETE SLAB:

• Flooring can be installed successfully over a slab that is on-grade or above grade. Below-grade installations are not recommended.
• The slab must be constructed properly (dry and flat with a trowel finish). Look for puddles and moisture spots on the surface of the slab.
• New concrete is heavy with moisture, an inherent enemy of wood. Proper on-grade slab construction requires a vapor retarder such a 6mil polyethylene film between the gravel fill and the slab. While this prevents moisture entry through the slab, this membrane also retards curing of the slab. Always test for dryness, even if the slab has been in place for over two years.
• Slabs younger than 60-days are generally too wet for flooring installation and need longer curing times to be ready for flooring.

TESTING CONCRETE FOR EXCESSIVE MOISTURE:

• NOTE: Make tests in several areas of each room on both old and new slabs. When tests indicate too much moisture in the slab, do not install hardwood floors. For a moist slab, wait until it dries naturally, or accelerate drying with heat and ventilation, then test again.
• Calcium Chloride Test. Place one quarter of a teaspoon of dry (anhydrous) Calcium Chloride crystals inside a 3-inch diameter putty ring on the slab and cover with a glass so the crystals are completely sealed off from any air. If the crystals dissolve within 12 hours the slab has too high of a moisture content for flooring installation.

CONCRETE SLAB PREPARATION:

• The slab must be sound and flat.
• To prepare the slab, grind off any high spots, fill low spots. Clean up grease, oil and other contaminants, and sweep clean.
• If the slab is “mealy” and excessively dusty, it may not be of proper strength and stability.

CONCRETE SLAB CONSTRUCTION:

• Plank flooring and related products should be protected from moisture migration through a slab. Proper on grade or above grade construction requires that a vapor retarder be in place beneath the slab. ALWAYS perform appropriate moisture tests to determine suitability of the slab before delivering wood products.
• Install a 4-inch base course of washed gravel or crushed rock under the slab. Place a vapor retarder such a 6-mol polyethylene film between the base course and the slab.
• Also, a vapor retarder equivalent to 4- or 6-mil polyethylene should ALWAYS be installed on top of the slab to further protect the wood products.

WOOD FLOORING OVER A RADIANT HEATED CONCRETE SLABS

• Flooring is an insulator and may require higher water temperatures for a radiant heat system. Also, an outside thermostat is recommended to anticipate rapid temperature changes. Boiler water temperature must be controlled to keep it to a maximum of 125 degrees. This will limit the temperature of the slab surface to about 85 degrees, an acceptable level for most mastics adhesives.
• The flooring is installed as in any other slab project, except do not fasten plywood to concrete with either nails or power-actuated fasteners. Turn on the heating system 4-5 days prior to the delivery of the flooring to the job. The heat will drive extra or excess moisture out of the slab. Note: Check mastic manufacturer’s specifications for suitability of use over radiant heat.
• Radiant heat should never exceed 85 degrees at a wood floors surface. Narrower planks (under 4 inches in width) are also recommended when installing flooring over radiant heat.

WOOD FLOORING OVER RADIANT HEATED FLOOR JOIST/WOOD SUBFLOOR (ABOVE GRADE)

• Flooring is an insulator and may require higher water temperatures for a radiant heat system. Also an outside thermostat is recommended to anticipate raped temperature changes. Boiler water temperature must be controlled to keep it to a maximum of 125 degrees. This will limit the temperature of the slab surface to about 85 degrees, an expectable level for most mastics.
• Radiant heat should never exceed 85 degrees at a wood floors surface. Narrower planks (under 4 inches in width) are also recommended when installing flooring over radiant heat.

A VAPOR RETARDER IS NECESSARY:

• The term “vapor barrier” has been commonly used to indicate materials which impede moisture movement. Most of these materials permit the passage of small amounts of moisture; therefore the term “vapor barrier” is not totally accurate and “vapor retarder” is more appropriate).
• The MOST frequent cause of moisture problems in a new home is moisture trapped within the structure during construction and/or a continuing source of excess moisture from the basement, crawl space, or slab. These moisture sources can cause problems with wood flooring. A properly placed vapor retarder can prevent or reduce problem moisture from entering the home.

LAYING HARDWOOD FLOORING OVER A CONCRETE SUBFLOOR:

• Subfloors must be fully dried out with a maximum moisture content of 5% and must contain an effective damp proof membrane (refer to vapor barriers above).
• For a “belt and braces” job, lay building paper on the concrete as an additional vapor barrier.
• Battens should be screwed and counter sunk onto the concrete.
• Centers should measure no more than 12 inches.
• Minimum thickness of battens should be 1 inch (3/4 inch is possible if the nailing is driven at 30 degrees). Normal batten width is 1 ¾ inch.
• Thermal insulation is improved by laying insulation between battens.

LAYING HARDWOOD FLOORING OVER GROUND FLOOR JOISTS:

• Reclaimed wood flooring should never be nailed directly to joists over a ventilated ground floor void. Over time, flooring will absorb airborne moisture from the ventilation and will swell.
• It is recommend that plywood of at least 5/8 inch is laid first followed by a sheet vapor barrier (not polyethylene) and then your reclaimed antique hardwood floor.
• If laying flooring parallel with floor joists add either an additional layer of minimum ½” (15/32”) CDX plywood underlayment to the existing subfloor or brace between two joists with 2”x 6” or wider boards every 24” minimum.  Again, make sure the subfloor is within 2 1/2% moisture content of the floor before installing.
• For a new home with wood joist construction after the roof, windows and doors are installed; place a polyethylene film over the crawl space earth as soon as possible. Please refer to the Moisture and Sources of Moisture Sections on the previous pages.
• Cover the earth 100%, overlap sheets, turn up at foundation walls and weight down to avoid dislocation.

THE SUBFLOOR:
Almost all cracks and squeaks can be directly traced to an inadequate subfloor. A floor is only as sturdy as its base, or subfloor. A plank subfloor should be at least 6" wide boards installed diagonally to the joists. When installing a plywood subfloor, 3/4" exterior grade is recommended if your finished flooring is 3/4" thick. For 1/2” flooring, an additional layer of 1/2” plywood on top of the 3/4” subfloor is recommended. Fastening the subfloor to the joists with screws as opposed to nails is highly recommended for long term life of the subfloor and, subsequently, the floor on top. If wood flooring is to be installed over a concrete subfloor, check for wetness by taping down a square yard of plastic for 72 hours to see if condensation forms or by conducting a Calcium Chloride Test (mentioned previously). Once dry, you can install a joist system or a grid of pressure-treated lumber (screed system) over the concrete slab. Align the edges with the joists for strength and stagger adjacent rows four feet. You can cut the plywood into 4' squares to create a smaller area over which each panel can move. Nail every six inches along each joist with 8D or larger nails. You can use adhesive before nailing to further reduce movement and possible squeaks. A combination of gluing flooring to the subfloor followed by nailing is recommended for any floor plank exceeding 3 inches in width. If a sleeper (or screed) system is installed over a concrete slab, dry pressure treated 2x4s are preferred. These should be 18" to 4' in length and staggered on centers with an air gap on all overlap joints. Lay them perpendicular to the direction of the flooring and secure them with T-nails staggered side-to-side 4” to 6” apart. Leave expansion joints of at least 1/8 inch between each panel, section, or board of the subfloor. Research has shown that two or three years after a floor is installed, the subfloor will measure 2-3% higher moisture content than the floor itself. This is due to the subfloor having less access to heating and air conditioning than the floor, and will expand slightly from the additional moisture. Use a 6' to 10' straightedge to check the subfloor for high and low areas. Sand any high spot so the subfloor is as flat as possible. After the subfloor has been deemed level, put down 30 pound felt paper carefully; butt-edged, not overlapped. Felt paper reduces the chance of squeaks and helps circulation around the floorboards.

STEP BY STEP NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION:
(All ½”, ¾” and thicker flooring installation